Why not have some nice tropical fish Pet

Do you have a tropical fish? So you're in a party - there are countless reasons why these little beauties strength from Bravo Company, and some of these reasons really surprised in May! So if you're still on the fence about whether or not you want to spend your money on the fish, let's take a closer look at some reasons and benefits - it is true, we said the benefits - you should consider when

Cherry Shrimp

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Data Sheet
Scientific Name:	Neocaridina heteropoda
Other Names:	Fire Shrimp, Red Cherry Shrimp
Origin:	Southeast Asia
Adult Size:	1.5 inches (4 cm)
Social:	Good
Lifespan:	1-2 years
Tank Level:	Bottom
Minimum Tank Size:	1-2 gallons (for 1-2 shrimps)
Diet:	Omnivore
Breeding:	Egg Layer
Care:	Easy
Ideal pH:	6.5-8
Temperature:	18-30°C (65-85°F).
Sexing:	The male is smaller and less colorful than the female. The male's tail, not being needed to carry eggs, is thinner. The female is larger and displays a much darker and more extensive red color, and often has a "saddle" marking of developing eggs.

Baby Cherry Shrimp The bright colors contrast nicely against blackground Pregnant Cherry Shrimp Cherry Shrimp Sharing food

Description: Red Cherry shrimps are very attractive shrimps with red and white coloration on its body. Habitat/Care: Red cherry shrimp are fairly easy to care for in the home freshwater aquarium. They will adapt to a wide range of water conditions, and will thrive in the same conditions as many common aquarium fish. A few cherry shrimp can be kept in a desktop aquarium of 1-2 gallon capacity, and a setup of 10 gallons or more will allow for an active colony. Red Cherry shrimp spend a great deal of their time sitting on aquatic plants, when available, and hiding in them for protection, especially after molting. They also eat the film of algae and microorganisms which forms on plant leaves without harming the leaves in the process. Java moss and Java fern are both excellent plants for the shrimp tank, as they thrive in the same conditions that the cherry shrimp do, and provide both the physical benefits of the plants to the shrimp and pleasing visual contrast with the red bodies of the shrimp to the human viewer. Red Cherry shrimps also feel more secure if there is a shaded nook or cranny they can escape into if they are frightened. Bogwood or driftwood can often make a suitable shelter for this purpose. Red Cherry Shrimp also respond to the color of their background and substrate. If they are in a tank with light-colored substrate, they will become paler, even transparent. On a darker substrate, they take on their full red coloration. Shrimp are gregarious by nature and enjoy being part of a group. Shrimp which are kept alone are often shy, reclusive and lack bight colours. Mixing with other fishes: Red Cherry Shrimp are very small and harmless, meaning that any carnivorous or omnivorous fish is a possible risk to them. Even fish too small to eat an entire shrimp can harass them, pick at their legs, etc. Newly hatched shrimp are so tiny that nearly any fish can, if so inclined, eat them. Therefore, if you intend to breed them, they should have a tank to themselves. Small, non-aggressive fish such as neon and cardinal tetras, otocinclus catfish, and possibly strictly vegetarian species of killifish, can be kept with cherry shrimp. Cichlids, barbs, and similar fish will eat them. Diet: Red Cherry Shrimp are primarily algae eaters. They will eat any food intended for aquarium use, but they greatly prefer compressed algae discs. Blanched (boiled until soft) vegetables such as zucchini, baby carrots, and spinach can be used as a supplemental food, but should be fed sparingly. Uneaten vegetables can very quickly decompose and create water quality problems. Periodically a shrimp will shed its exoskeleton, leaving an empty white ghost of itself caught in the plants or drifting around the tank. This should be left in the tank, as the shrimp will eat it to recover the valuable minerals it contains. Breeding: Breeding Red Cherry Shrimp is as simple as putting an adult male and female together in an aquarium. You can observe the eggs developing in the female's ovaries as a white or yellow triangular "saddle" marking on her back. When she is ready to lay the eggs, she releases pheromones into the water to signal her availability to males. The male shrimp in the tank will often become agitated, swimming very actively about as they search for the source of the pheromones. After a brief mating process, the female lays her eggs and affixes them to her swimmerettes. When the young hatch, they are tiny (~1 mm) copies of the adults. They have no planktonic larval stage. They spend their first few days of life hiding among plants, where they are almost invisible, nibbling on the biofilm on the plants. They then emerge and graze on algae on tank surfaces and ornaments.

Disease: Like most aquatic invertebrates, Red Cherry Shrimp are very sensitive to ammonia buildup in their water. They should never be put into a tank which has not been fully cycled, and regular testing should be done on any new tank until it is certain that the tank is stable. Even trace amounts of ammonia can weaken or kill shrimp, so nitrogen cycle control is critical. The usual causes of ammonia spikes are overfeeding leading to uneaten food decaying in the tank, insufficient denitrifying bacteria, and overcrowding by shrimp, fish, or both. It is important to note that, like most freshwater invertebrates, Red Cherry Shrimp are extremely sensitive to copper. Therefore, if copper-based treatments for the external parasites of fish are used in a tank containing cherry shrimp, the shrimp should be removed for the duration of the treatment and until the copper has been cleared from the water. It is advisable to use a copper test kit (available from specialty aquarium stores and suppliers) to confirm this.

References Cited:

1. Cherry Shrimp, Wikipedia, [Online], [Available], http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cherry_shrimp
2. The Crystal Red Shrimp Grading Guide [Online], [Available], http://www.planetinverts.com/crystal%20red%20shrimp%20grading%20guide.html

Ram Cichlid

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Data Sheet
Scientific Name:	Microgeophagus ramierzi, Papilochromis ramirezi,
Other Names:	Ram, Blue ram, German blue ram, Asian ram,Butterfly cichlid, Ramirez's dwarf cichlid, Dwarf butterfly cichlid and Ramirezi
Origin:	South Africa
Adult Size:	4 inches (10 cm)
Social:	Good
Lifespan:	2 years
Tank Level:	Mid to Top
Minimum Tank Size:	15 gallons
Diet:	Omnivore
Breeding:	Egg Layer
Care:	Intermediate
Ideal pH:	5-7.5
Temperature:	79 - 83°F (26 to 28 C)
Tank setup:	The Rams should have a large well planted tank with plenty of caves, driftwood and other hiding places.
Sexing:	The female has a crimson belly and the male has longer dorsal fins.

Description: Ram Cichlids are stocky in shape and can be differentiate from their dorsal fin rays - the first Dorsal fin rays are not connected to each other at the tips. In Male Cichlids, the third and forth rays are longer than others. A black vertical line runs across the eye and red patch around it. Ram Cichlids are one of the most beautiful cichlids, and there are many species of Ram Cichlids. Each species has their own unique coloration, from the German Blue which has attractive blue coloration on its body to the Microgeophagus ramierzi, which has a wide combination of colors on its body. Habitat/Care: Ram cichlids come from South America, and are found in the rivers of Venezuela, and Columbia. They require a warmer waters, and having water temperature of 79 - 83°F (26 to 28 C) is ideal. Ram Cichlids requires established water and can be picky eaters at first - and may die relatively quickly if the water condition is too cold or if the waters is not 'old' enough. As with other cichlids, there should be some hiding places provided in the tank. For Ram Cichlids, the interior decor is very important, the tank should be provided with rocks, plants and hiding place for shelter when there is aggression especially during the breeding period. These fish are noted to be fussy about their surroundings - should it be unhappy with its surrounding, it will go to a corner and gradually lose its coloration. For this reason, they are not recommended for beginners. Mixing with other fishes: Ram Cichlids look best when keep in groups of their own kind. It is not recommended to keep them with other Cichlids, as their small size would mean that they will get bullied. Ideally, Ram Cichlids should be kept with fish that are slow-moving, as these fishes tend to hide if made nervous. Smalll tetras, barbs, and evenHeckel Discus fish can be kept in the same aquarium as Ram Cichlids. Diet: Ram Cichlids are omnivores. While they will accept most flake food, frozen or live foods are preferred. It has been noted that Rams that are newly introduced to the aquarium sometimes tend to picky eaters, refusing food or just nibbling. To encourage them to eat, it is recommended that frozen bloodworms, brine shrimp and live foods are given to these fishes. As it is observed that they are starting to eat more freely, slowly, pellets, flakes and other foods can be fed. Breeding: Once sexually mature, the species forms monogamous pairs prior to spawning. The species is known to lay its small 0.9 - 1.5 mm adhesive eggs on flattened stones or directly into small depressions dug in the gravel. Like many cichlids, M. ramirezi practices biparental brood care with both the male and the female playing roles in egg-tending and territorial defence. Typical clutch size for the species is 150-300 eggs, though larger clutches up to 500 have been reported. Parental M. ramirezi have been observed to fan water over their eggs which hatch in 40 hours at 29 ºC (84.2 ºF). The larvae are not free-swimming for 5 days after which they are escorted by the male or the female in dense school for foraging

Disease: Ram Cichlid, like any other fish, may occasionally suffer from some diseases from time to time. These diseases may be due to infections by bacteria, fungi, or parasites. Thankfully there are a wide range of commercial solutions available to treat your pet. These solutions can be usually purchase from your local pet store. Sluggishness, color loss, fraying of fins, bloating, inflammation of the skin, the fins, and the internal organs, bulging and cloudiness of the eyes, sores and abscesses, and breathing difficulties, are all symptoms of bacterial infections. Exophthalmia, or Pop-eye (bulging eyes), and ulcers are among some of the bacterial infections. Fungal infections may result in the fish darting across the aquarium somewhat erratically. Symptoms may also include the growth of cotton-like tufts over the mouths, eyes, or skin. Infections by parasites may also lead to sluggishness, heavy breathing, appetite loss, growth of mucus on the body, visible spots, worms, and scratching. Leeches, anchor worms, and lice are some Cichlid parasites. Another very common cichlid disease is Ich or Ichtyophthirius. With this white salt-like marks appear on the head first, and then spread over the whole body. Breathing is quick, the fish scratches a lot, and the eyes and fins, both, become cloudy. If the abdomen is swollen, and if there are red scales surrounding this area, it is probable that your cichlid is suffering from Dropsy. This could be due to bacteria, parasites, or cancer. Salt treatment is recommended to cure this disease. Finrot , Ammonia Poisoning, and Fish Pox are usually due to poor maintenance of water quality. To ensure that your fish is healthy, it is highly recommended that at least 20% of the water be changed regularly.

References Cited:

1. Ram Cichlid, [Online], Available, Accessed 12 May 2008, http://www.grizzlyrun.com/Pets/Fish/Freshwater_Fish/Ram_Cichlid/Default.htm

2. Microgeophagus ramierzi [Online], Available, Accessed 12 May 2008, http://cichlid.infocrux.com/Ram-Cichlid.html

3. Ram Cichlid, [Online], Available, Accessed 13 May 2008, http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ram_cichlid

4. German Blue Ram Cichlid, [Online], Available, Accessed, 14 May 2008 http://www.fishlore.com/aquariummagazine/dec07/blue-ram-cichlid.htm

5. Cichlid Disease,Pooja Chakrabarty [Online], Available, Accessed, 15 May 2008
http://cichlid.infocrux.com/Cichlid-Disease.html

6. German Blue Ram Cichlid, [Online], Available, Accessed 15 May 2008, http://www.fishlore.com/aquariummagazine/dec07/blue-ram-cichlid.htm

DiamondBack Terrapins

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Data Sheet Scientific Name: Malaclemys Family: Terrapins Origin: USA Adult Size: 5 inches (12.5 cm) for males, and 7.5 inches(19 cm) for females Social: Baby Turtles can be kept together, but adults may not. Lifespan: 50 years+ Minimum Tank Size: A 12 x 6 x 6 inches (30 x 15 x 15 cm) tank would be suitable for a single small terrapins up to 10 cm (4 inches) shell length. Diet: Omnivorous Breeding: Egg layer Care: Intermediate. Ideal pH: 6.5-7.5 Temperature: Tolerates a wide range of temperature. Tank setup: Place the terrapin in a tank with shallow water, some logs or rock so that it can sun itself. Sexing: Females are much large than males.

Baby DiamondBack TerrapinDiamond Terrapin Eggs

Ornate Orange Diamondback Terrapin A large female Diamondback Terrapin Some Diamondback Terrapins has horns on their shell.

Description: Diamondback Terrapins' shell is covered with scales or plates called scutes that bear deep, diamond-shaped growth rings. The pattern and coloration is dependent on the species of the turtle, although most species tend to be brown to grey, with some yellow markings. Regardless of the species of Diamondback Terrapins, all of them has a distinctive, unique, wiggly black markings or spots on the white colored head and body. Habitat/Care: Diamondback Terrapins are native to brackish coastal swamps in eastern and southern United States of America. The Diamondback Terrapin is believed to be the only turtle in the world that lives exclusively in brackish-water areas. In these areas, such as tidal marshes, estuaries, and lagoons, and the water contains some salt. In winter, these terrapins hibernate. Diamondback Terrapins usually dig a hole in the mud and bury themselves in mud of at least 2 inches thick. They do not resurface until the winter is over. To replicate these settings, it is recommended that tanks for Diamondback Terrapins contains a mix of wet sand, and some brackish waters with slow current. There are a large number of commercial solutions that are able to reproduce brackish water effect in the market - do check with your local pet store. A heater may be required so that your turtle will not hibernate. Diet: The diamondback terrapin eats snails, clams, small fishes, crabs, and some marsh plants, and cheerfully accept most commercial food for terrapins and turtles. It is recommended that their diet be supplemented occasionally with live food such as small fishes. Breeding: As mentioned above, female terrapins are much larger than males, averaging about 7.5 inches compared to 5 inches for the male. Females reproduce when they are between 8 and 13 years old. In the summer, they move from marsh creeks onto beaches and dunes to lay their pinkish-white eggs in 6-inch-deep nests in the sand. After 60–120 days, the inch-long hatchlings emerge from the nest and enter the nearest water.

Different Species of DiamondBack Terrapins The following is a table from Enchanted forest Creek website, describing the different species of Diamondback terrapin in detail. Northern Diamondback Terrapin Malaclemys terrapin terrapin Carapace: lightly sculpted, black to light brown with slight dorsal keel and concentric markings. Skin: light specks and/or streaks with brighter individuals possessing bold spots and dashes. Color varies from dark gray to white. Distinguishing feature: the main subspecies available in herpetoculture. Carolinan Diamondback Terrapin Malaclemys terrapin centrata Carapace: smooth, black, olive to ivory with dorsal keel almost absent. Sides of the carapace tend to run almost parallel to each other. Concentric markings are present and are sometimes faded, giving a marble effect. Skin: light specks and/or streaks with brighter individuals possessing bold spots and dashes. Color varies from dark gray to white. Distinguishing feature: carapace features and larger head. Florida East Coast Diamondback Terrapin Malaclemys terrapin tequesta Carapace: deeply sculpted, black to gray with sometimes lighter scute centers with slight dorsal keel. Concentric rings are generally absent. Skin: thin, with mostly specks or large spots; and even patternless. Color is usually gray or white. Mustache is normally present. Distinguishing feature: lack of concentric carapace markings. Mangrove Diamondback Terrapin Malaclemys terrapin rhizophorarum Carapace: smooth, black to light brown with slight dorsal keel and concentric markings. Skin: spotted or streaked against a background of gray.Can also come with bold spots and dashes like the northern and carolinan subspecies. Distinguishing feature: very rarely seen subspecies. Ornate Diamondback Terrapin Malaclemys terrapin macrospilota Carapace: deeply sculpted, black to dark gray with high dorsal keel. Scute centers are typically orange or yellow. Concentric markings are almost completely absent. Marginals can be checkered or completely orange/yellow. Skin: thin, making their heads appear pink at times. Light speckling is usually present although patternless individuals are also known to occur. Color is generally a shade of gray. Distinguishing feature: arguably the most attractive and easily distinguishable subspecies. The contrast of orange/yellow scute centers against an otherwise dark carapace is very pleasing indeed. Mississippi Diamondback Terrapin Malaclemys terrapin pileata Carapace: deeply grooved, black to dark gray with high dorsal keel. Concentric markings are absent against the dark background. Skin: thin, with mostly light speckling against a black or gray background. Mustache often present. Distinguishing feature: darkest subspecies. Texas Diamondback Terrapin Malaclemys terrapin littoralis Carapace: deeply grooved, black to brown high dorsal keel. Scute centers are sometimes lighter and concentric markings are invisible due to the background color. Skin:lightly speckled, dark gray with greenish or bluish heads. Distinguishing feature: head color.

Photo Galley
Got a photo? Contact me.

Links to other awesome DiamondBack Terrapin sites:

1.http://www.geocities.com/EnchantedForest/Creek/4046/ awesome pics for DiamondBack Terrapins, including terrapins.
2.http://www.natureportfolio.com/reptiles/turtles_terrapins.php - includes images on various turtles.
3 http://www.seacave.com/testsite/livestock/turtles.php - a place where you can buy turtles as pets.
4. http://www.terrapinconservation.org/- terrapin conservation wetlands institute- where you can help in the conservation of this terrapin.
5. http://www.diamondbackterrapin.com/index2.html - one of the most awesome site for diamond back terrapin information

References Cited:

1.DiamondBack Terrapin [Online], Accessed on 10 May 2008, Available, http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Diamondback_terrapin
2. Diamondback Terrapin (Malaclemys terrapin) [Online], Accessed on 10
May 2008, Available , http://www.ocean.udel.edu/kiosk/terrapin.html
3.Diamonds in the Marsh: A Natural History of the Diamondback Terrapin, By Barbara Brennessel.

Reptiles

Welcome to the Aquarium Lore Blog!

If you are new visitor, I want you to know that you are a valued visitor to my site, and you are welcomed to include your comments, rate my blog, review it, submit your terrapin photo, etc. Please bookmark this site or add it to your RSS feed if you like it.

If you are frequent visitor, I want you to know that you are a treasured visitor, and I thank you from the bottom of my heart for checking back often and support my passion by reading my blog.

Below are all the articles on reptiles that are available in this blog at this moment, sorted alphabetically. This blog is fairly new, being launched in mid-Mar 2006 only, and therefore there are not many articles yet. I will be adding new information weekly, So check back often! If you are seeking information on a specific reptile that I have not added to this blog, I welcome your suggestions. Please email me.

Above all, I hope you enjoy the articles - each articles is slowly created, and includes a datasheet, habitat/care, diet information, disease information, and a photo gallery.

Terrapins: DiamondBack Terrapin Red Ear Slider / Red Ear Terrapin Reader's Contribution: Tortoise Mating

Eugene

Crustaceans

Welcome to the Aquarium Lore Blog!

If you are new visitor, I want you to know that you are a valued visitor to my site, and you are welcomed to include your comments, rate my blog, review it, submit your crustanceans photo, etc. Please bookmark this site or add it to your RSS feed if you like it.

If you are frequent visitor, I want you to know that you are a treasured visitor, and I thank you from the bottom of my heart for checking back often and support my passion by reading my blog.

Below are all the articles on Crustanceans that are available in this blog at this moment, sorted alphabetically. This blog is fairly new, being launched in mid-Mar 2006 only, and therefore there are not many articles yet. I will be adding new information weekly, so check back often! If you are seeking information on a specific reptile that I have not added to this blog, I welcome your suggestions. Please email me.

Above all, I hope you enjoy the articles - each articles is slowly created, and includes a datasheet, habitat/care, diet information, disease information, and a photo gallery.

Freshwater Lobsters/ Crayfish: Blue Lobster /Blue Crayfish (new) Crabs: Hermit Crabs (New) Prawns and Shrimps: Crystal Red Shrimps (New) Cherry Shrimps (New)

Eugene

Congo Tetra

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Data Sheet Congo Tetra. Love the red color. Scientific Name: Phenacogrammus (Micralestes) interruptus Other Name: Congo Tetra, Family: Characidae Origin: Congo, Africa Adult Size: 8cm- 10 cm (3 to 4 inches) for males. around 6cm-7cm for females (2.3 inches) Social: Very Good. Peaceful fish Lifespan: 5 years Tank Level: All (generally middle layers). A Congo Tetra with yellow coloration Minimum Tank Size: 60 gallons, but bigger tank is recommended Diet: Cheerfully eats almost any food you care to feed it. Breeding: Egg Layer - tends to scatter eggs on the gravel. Care: Easy Ideal pH: 6 - 7 Temperature: 24-27 C (74-81 F) Tank setup: Have lots of free swimming spaces for this fish as it is a strong swimmer. Sexing: Males are bigger and tend to be flashier Healthy Specimen of Congo Tetra Another awesome male. Congo Tetras looks their best in groups.A blue color congo tetra Description: Congo Tetra appears to be a rather drab, gray to silvery fish with a copper to reddish-brown band from the gill cover to the adipose fin. However, when light strikes their large opalescent scales, various color are refracted from the scales, though yellows, greens and blues predominate. Congo Tetra has feathery extensions that grow from the trailing edge of the caudal fin (tail). These extensions are well-developed in males and tends to become more elaborate as the fish matures. The dorsal fin of the male is very long and may extend as far as the end of the tail in some individuals. The dorsal, pelvic, anal and caudal fins are all generally light gray in color with milky white edges. Author's Note: This is un-doubtablely one of the most beautiful fish I have ever encountered, and any available stock in the local aquarium are quickly snapped up. Habitat/Care: The Congo Tetra is an open-water, schooling fish that is found in the rivers and lakes of the Congo River basin. Congo tetras are shoaling fish and should always be kept in a group of at least six. Males develop better colouration when kept in a group containing a number of female fish to display to. These fishes are excellent jumpers, and aquarium owners should consider a lid to prevent them from jumping out of the aquarium. The Congo tetra is sensitive to poor water quality> and frequent water changes are very important. Good water circulation in the aquarium is also necessary. Mixing with other fishes: Congo tetras are very peaceful and can be mixed with most community fish. However, large specimens may eat frys and smaller fishes, and sometimes nibble soft plants. Take care not to introduce potentially nippy fishes, like Tiger barbs or Red-eyed tetras, as these may bite the flowing fins of the males. Diet: In the wild, Congo Tetra is primarily insectivorous, but will also feed on plants occasionally. In an aquarium, Congo Terta accepts most aquarium foods, but benefits from good quality flake food containing colour enhancers. To ensure that these fish look their best, their diet should be supplement by additional food such as bloodworm, daphnia and brine shrimp. Breeding: Breeding Congo Tetras generally requires a large, well-lighted tank with plenty of swimming space that is at least partially planted. Goe Gallon noted that the ideal water should be soft and slightly on the acid side, and that filtration through peat may be beneficial to encourage spawning. He also noted that spawning temperature is best between 25-27 degree C (75 - 77 degrees F). Prior to breeding, a pair of Congo Tetra should be ideally conditioned beforehand with ample feedings of live or frozen foods. During mating, the male will actively pursue the ripe female until between 300 - 500 eggs are laid, generally in or around plants. These eggs are only weakly adhesive and it is common for most of the eggs to sink to the bottom. At this point, it is recommended to remove the parents once the eggs are laid as the adults may eat the eggs or new frys. The eggs should hatch after an incubation period of approximately 5 - 7 days. Photo Galley Got a photo? Contact me. References Cited: 1. Animal World - Congo Tetra [Online] Available, Accessed 3 May 2008, http://animal-world.com/encyclo/fresh/characins/CongoTetra.php 2. Congo tetra, Phenacogrammus interruptus, [Online] Available, Accessed 3 May 2008, http://www.practicalfishkeeping.co.uk/pfk/pages/show_article.php?article_id=270 3. Congo Tetra By Joe Gallon, [Online], Available, Accessed 3 May 2008 http://www.aquarticles.com/articles/breeding/Gallo_Congo_Tetra.html